You can’t say Japan without saying sushi. Though the lovely combination of seasoned rice and raw fish has become the mainstream symbol of Japanese cooking, most Japanese rarely eat it at home other than on celebrations or festive occasions. And though more and more restaurants in Europe and USA up their game on sushi, there’s really nothing like experiencing it in Japan.
Why? you ask. Simply because of the perfect combination of the freshness of the produce and the Japanese culture regarding dining experiences. Fukuoka in particular is throughout Japan known for its fresh and well-tasting products, and has in the recent years seen an increase in national tourists because of this. I kid you not, even the sleaziest, cheapest little yatai (i.e. on-street food stalls) will serve you with a fulfilling and well prepared meal. Not to mention the Japanese experience of sitting across from your chef! That is the second thing that makes sushi in Japan (and dining in Japan in general) a great experience. It doesn’t matter if it’s an izakaya, sushi restaurant, udon food stall or a small ramen diner, the カウンター席 (i.e. counter seat) culture is perhaps my favorite thing about Japan! It’s playing an active part in maintaining the service level in Japan, it’s a great way to meet new people, and it’s the ONLY way to truly experience the concept of sushi. The experience of sushi is not just about something looking good on a plate. It’s the many years of hard work the sushi-chef has put into refining his/her skills and perfection displayed right in front of you that makes sushi what it is. If not that, anyone could make sushi with some expensive tuna and grandma’s fine porcelain plates. It’s also the level of perfection that makes it hard for me to eat sushi outside of Japan, whether it’s at a restaurant or just making it for fun at home. Once you go fine-dining sushi in Japan, there is literally NO turning back. And one place in particular has completely “nori”-wrapped my heart.
Counter seats at Tatsumi Sushi, Iwataya (Source: Google)
The first restaurant opened in 1980 in Nagahama, but has since expanded to 3 restaurants and one take-away shop around Fukuoka. The owner’s idea to cook and present sushi and fish in a way so that even non-fish lovers would say “umai!” has become known throughout Japan, attracting many visitors from both Tokyo and Kansai. On the 7th floor – the restaurant floor – of Iwataya Shin-kan, walk through the small door way and into the cool vibes of “Hakata Tatsumi Sushi“‘s 2-go-ten (second restaurant). The place is small, compared to the “honkan” (main shop) in Nakasu, but the counter seats about 10 people plus 3 dining tables in the front of the shop and more private dining space in the back. Despite of the clean, white appearance, with a close resemblance to Magneto’s plastic prison in the X-men movies, there’s a calm, down-to-earthy feeling, that makes the experience of eating sushi here very high-class and modern, yet traditional at the same time. Sit down at the counter, order a Asahi beer, and get ready to experience some of the most delicious fish you’ve ever tasted. The chefs at Tasumi Sushi know what they’re talking about! Simply ask the chef what he’d recommend or request an o-makase (literally “I’ll leave it to you”), and he will guide you through the best fish of the season, and if you’re lucky, the best catch of the day! The fish is purchased directly from the fishermen every morning, tasted and assorted accordingly to the taste of the season. And even if you’re “out of season”, be sure to know that if you order a platter of assorted sashimi, you will experience the fattiest, freshest tuna in the world, in perfect, bite-size cuts and so rich that it melts directly on your tongue (yes, fatty tuna melts!). Now that we’ve had you introduced to the deliciousness of their sashimi, it’s time to take you down the real rabbit whole! If you prefer to proceed your journey with a beer, no one’s gonna stop you. But since you’re already out fishing, why not try hire-saké? Well, know around Japan, this take on “atsukan” (warm saké) is an excellent companion to sushi. Hire is the Japanese word for “fin”, and this is exactly what you will find in your saké. It’s basically a warm cup of saké with a charcoal-grilled fugu-fin* in it. The saké is lit on fire (with the fin still in it), and the lid is put on. This is to burn of the strong flavor of the alcohol, leaving behind just the sweetness of the saké and the smokey taste of the fugu-fin. Take out the fin before drinking, and blink twice; because it’s gone before you know it! Easy to drink, delicious, and worth a second round! But be careful, the alcohol percentage of saké is slightly higher than wine, so remember to order some water with that one kids! Next step is to try a very common food in the Kyushu area: whale. Considered to be the replacement for meat in poor households some 50 years ago, today whale (or “kujira”) is considered to be delicious and expensive dining (though a 50-year old taxi driver I know will tell you that childhood trauma of being fed nothing but leathery whale-meat will make him flinch just by looking at it.) Nowadays whale sashimi looks almost like meat, with a mouthwatering pink and white marble-pattern throughout. The kujira-bacon is as lovely to chew into as the pork one, and has a nice and smokey aftertaste. If you’re not quite feeling your buttons pop yet, why not finish the meal with a ikura-cocktail? In any other sushi restaurant, the large, savory fish-eggs are normally served on top of an onigiri wrapped in nori, but sticking to
The ikura-cocktail with golden leafs on top. (Source: own)
* Fugu? Yes, I’m talking about the poisonous fish that “nearly” killed Homer in one of the older Simpsons-episodes. It’s more edible than we can imagine, but more on that later on! Tatsumi Sushi’s owner’s idea of presenting fish in a new and mouthwatering way, here its served in a martini glass. The soft, sticky rice is placed in the bottom, with the ikura and seasoning on top. Finish of with edible gold, and you have your superstar, high-class ikura cocktail. Again, be aware: it’s a gullible as the hire-saké, if not more! The Iwataya Shop is great for the first experience on a night out. It’s right next to Daimyo, the young people’s party district, and not even 2 min walk from Tenjin station – and if you like walking as much as I do, you can go the 5-10 min distance to Nishi-Nakasu. It’s also the one I’d go to if I went there for lunch. However, if you want a slow and relaxed experience, I recommend going to their “Honkan” in Nakasu, and to request a table on the second floor (counter seats of course!). The interior here is more classic Japanese, with private rooms shut of by sliding doors. The lightening is more dim, which really brings on a relaxed atmosphere. The chefs here are just as willing to open up a conversation as anywhere else, and if you do o-makase, they will throw all kinds of nigiri sushi at you until you pop – and all based on what kind of fish you like.
Tatsumi Sushi, Honkan in Nakasu – second floor counter seats (source: http://www.tatsumi-sushi.com/shop)
Be aware, it’s a popular place, and especially the “Honkan” is frequented by business men and their clients, so reserving a table in advance is recommended!
Prices 1 person Onigiri O-makase: ￥6,300 Extra Special Onigiri Course: ￥3,900 Special Onigiri Course: ￥2,900
Onigiri (lowest price): ￥400 Onigiri (highest price): ￥1000 Fatty-tuna Onigiri: (Big) ￥1,300 (Small) ￥1,100
Assorted Sashimi: ￥4,500
2 or more
Seasonal O-makase Course: ￥11,000 〜 ￥15,500
Tatsumi Sushi also offers old-style Oshi-sushi (literally “pressed sushi”, pressed into a wooden box), hot-pot meals and steak-courses (beef, fois gras etc.)
Hakata Tatsumi Sushi Honkan
O-makase course, 2 or more people
博多たつい寿司 総本 8-5 Shimokawabatamachi Hakata-ku, Fukuoka-Shi Fukuoka, Japan Opening hours: 11am – 10pm (last order 9:30pm) Reservation: +81 (0) 92-263-1661 Business Holidays: New year’s eve
Nagahama Shop 長浜店 2-134-4 Nagahama Chuo-ku, Fukuoka-shi Fukuoka, Japan Opening hours: 11am – 10pm (last order 9:30pm) Reservation: +81 (0) 92-751-8139 Business Holidays: Sundays, New year’s eve
Lunch Course, Iwataya
Iwataya Restaurant 岩田屋店 レストラン Iwataya Shin-kan 7th Floor 2-5-35 Tenjin Chuo-ku, Fukuoka-shi Fukuoka, Japan Opening hours: 11am – 10pm (last order 9pm) Reservation: +81 (0) 92-723-0236 Business Holidays: New year’s day
Iwataya Take-away
Take Away Shop, Iwataya
岩田屋店 お持ち帰り Iwataya Shin-kan B2 2-5-35 Tenjin Chuo-ku, Fukuoka-shi Fukuoka, Japan Opening hours: 10am – 8pm Inquieries: +81 (0) 92-715-7789 Business Holidays: New year’s day
In My Japan 